In 2016, we had our chance to visit for the first time this beautiful oasis in the middle of the dense jungle of northern Guatemala: Semuc Champey. It was indeed an adventure just to even get there. Still, after several hours traveling through precious landscapes, driving up through mountains and lush trees, we finally arrived at this hidden treasure of Guatemala that only a few can say they have been there.

Click here: This amazing trip includes Semuc Champey 

We started our drive that day at 9 am from the capital of Guatemala. We drove out on a Sunday, so there wasn’t much traffic to worry about getting out of the city. It was our first time exploring this route, and we didn’t do much research beforehand, so we truly were up for an adventure.

Things were pretty nice driving on the CA-1 or also known as the Panamerican highway. There were four lanes on each side that were well painted; the asphalt was in good shape; there were plenty of signs so you knew where you were going, not much to ask for, really. But after driving for approximately 1.5 hrs heading east towards El Salvador, we came across a Y-Junction with a sign that said “Alta Verapaz” to the left (north). That was our exit, so we continued north for the following hours.

We shortly found out that this “new” highway was no longer as nice as the other was moments ago. We entered into some very steep terrain, and the pavement was almost non-existent with lots of loose gravel and even some large boulders due to recent rock slides. Eventually, our 6 hr drive total to Alta Verapaz became a 9-hour drive. Luckily in our future visits to Semuc Champey, the road had been renewed and in better shape than our first time around. So instead of driving straight to Semuc Champey, we decided to spend the night at a cozy little hotel at the town of Coban.

The following morning a 2.5hrs drive awaited to the national park of Semuc. We were surprised to see that about 2/3 of the way was well paved and in decent conditions. However, we probably spoke too soon, because right before we arrived to Lanquin, which is the nearest town to Semuc Champey, you must descend from the mountains on another steep rocky road with absolutely no pavement what so ever. You basically descend 3000 feet from Coban to Lanquin.

After a grueling descent, we stopped at Lanquin for a quick bite to eat. The town is quite small, and the people there are very friendly and humble. Do not expect any big stores or supermarkets, only little shops, restaurants, and few hostels for travelers. After lunch, we continued our way to the national park, which was only about a 30-minute drive, if you had a four-wheel drive as we did.

Upon arriving at the national park, they ask you to leave your vehicle at the parking lot and to pick up a local guide that knows his way through the hiking trails. You begin a hike on flat terrain for about 30-45 minutes until you arrive at the side of a hill, which you can climb on a wooden staircase that takes you over the hilltop to a beautiful viewpoint with the most spectacular view of the natural pools. After, you begin your descent for another 20 minutes until you finally arrive at the most breathtaking pristine waters you have ever seen.

So what is Semuc Champey? The name means “the river that hides beneath the stone” in the local Mayan dialect called Q’eqchi. Imagine nine gigantic natural pools floating over a large river surrounded by mountains and lush tropical rainforest. Within these pools, you will witness a series of caves with natural rock formations, waterfalls, and pristine filtered clear water. The pools are formed thanks to a natural 300 yard-limestone bridge that floats over the river Cahabón (Guatemala’s 3rd largest river), which feeds it with pristine filtered water directly from a spring in the mountains nearby.

The following nights, we stayed at a hostel very close to Semuc. Since technically this is a national park, most hotels or hostels in the vicinity operate as eco-lodges. So that means you are pretty much prived from high-speed internet, a/c, and in most cases hot water for bathing. But as a good friend always says: It’s all part of the experience! Our pick was the Mundo Perdido/Lost World Hostel, which had a fantastic elevated view of the river and rainforest from their restaurant/common area and also had some cozy cabins right by the river with private showers, hammocks, and individual beds.

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